Last Thoughts Before The Flight Home

I am about to fly out of Ezeiza Airport in Buenos Aires, Argentinia and although seven months it can be long time for some, it goes by fast when you travel as you are constantly exploring new places, meeting new people and cultures and having new experiences. What is after the next mountain range, the next country city or town, the next country. For me, you travel both physically on the ouside and within yourself as you find out more about who you are and where you fit in with other people and this world. Looking back on these past months, here is a list of my South American experience.

CHEAPEST HAIRCUT: Ometepe, Nicaragua ($0.75 US) - Roadside barber that also doubled as a bike shop.

FAVORITE TRAFFIC STOP: The Zebras of Bolivia (Sucre & La Paz) !!!  As an initiative by city mayors to employ at-risk youths dressed in zebra suits to increase pedestrain safety. These zebras jump out on the street and stop cars from running red lights or other traffic violations. Well loved by the locals and always positive and energetic, they have the ability to control traffic that most traffic cops don't.

MOST EXPENSIVE DORM: Salvador, Brasil ($78.00 Cdn per night) - Yes, for $78 you too can stay in a noisy 12-bed dorm with a fan but it includes breakfast and it was also during the Copa de Mundo (World Cup).

MOST THEMATIC HOSTEL: Lua Cheie HI Hostel, Natal, Brasil ($26 for a bed in
a six-bed dorm) - Ever had an inkling to stay in a fake medieval castle in South America. Yes, true to the Lonely Planet guide's description, this Harry Potterque decor complete with a draw bridge, gothic doorways, a long table with iron chandeliers, lockers with Latin inscpriptions and a suit of armor to greet you.  Monk chanting extra.

BEST HOSTEL ON THIS TRIP: Hostal Casa Verde (Santa Ana, El Salvador) -  Hands down the best hostel on this trip. The owner, Carlos must of previously stayed in many hostels and picked up the best features of them as his hostel is so well thought out. Two complete kitchens, yes, TWO fully stocked kitchens with decent pots and pans (and not the usual dented, rusted ones you get at other hostels) and enough to plates, utensils and and cups for everyone. Carlos also owns a coffee finca so he brings in bags of coffee beans. What are coffee beans without a coffee grinder and both french press and several coffee percolators of varyng cup sizes. There is an actual clothes washing and hanging area, swimming pool, partioned off bar/ drinking area, TV room, roof balcony and free drinking water. The dorms are big enough for bunk beds but there are only single beds and each bed has their own individual fan, backpack and towel rack, electrical socket, and security locker. Each 8 bed dorm has two washrooms with hot water. I can´t praise this hostel enough and the owner is ever so helpful, well informed and laid-back. If you ever find yourself in Santa Ana, El Salvador, stay here.


BIGGEST PET PEEVE IN A DORM: Not replacing the toilet paper after the last sheet.

FAVORITE WASHROOM ACCESSORY: Toilet Hand Spray (Brasil) - Standard in most bathrooms in Brasil, next to the toilet bowl and handy for washing away any unwanted residues !!!

NUMBER OF TIMES I GOT DIARRHEA: 5 (Brasil, Paraguay, Bolivia, Peru, Chile) - Almost a perfect record for South America.

NUMBER OF WORLD CUP GAMES ATTENDED: 3 (France vs Switzerland; Bosnia vs Iran; Netherlands vs Brasil).

LONGEST CONTINIOUS BUS RIDE: 28 hours (Asuncion, Paraguay to Santa Cruz, Bolivia) - What was suppose to be a 14-16 hour bus ride, turned out into a 28-hour ride with a broken toilet and hardly any food. Not a good time.

MOST PLEASANT BUS COMPANY: Cruz De Sur (throughout Peru) - As good or even better service than on an airplane. Hot meals with coffee, tea or cold drinks served by a ¨bus¨ stewardess who could move her body with the winding and bumpy motion of the bus. Seats that almost fold flat with clean blankets and cushions. Movies and yes, Bingo. Clickety click 66.

NUMBER OF TIMES MY BUS BROKE DOWN: 2 (Paraguay, Peru)

NUMBER OF TIMES MY BOAT GOT STUCK IN THE RIVER: 1 (Manu National Park, Peru)

BEST ¨FREE¨ WALKING TOUR: Red Cap Tours (La Paz, Bolivia). Funny, insightful and interesting. This 3-hour tour will start outside the San Pedro Prison and wind its way through three markets including the great food Lanza market and witches market complete with llama fetuses and then to many squares, the city cathedral, presidential palace, churches and end in four-star hotel which you can repel from the 17th floor. Great fun.

BEST DOMESTIC FAST FOOD CHAIN: Mamut (Arequipa, Peru / $2 to $4). Move aside Subway and Quiznos and your processed meat, eggs and tasteless, fake fresh buns, this is a real sandwich meal. Fresh Pollo, Lomo Saltado, Bifstek or Lomito (chicken, stir fried beef, pork) with sautéed onions, peppers and tomatoes and maybe a fried egg on a crusty, delicious bun and a choice of multiple sauces. The McDonald's next door is empty but this place is packed with locals. Long live the woolly sandwich mammoth !!!

BEST INDIGENOUS COOKIES: Cocokis - Costa Rica ($1.12 for 8 packages) - Their crunchy version of a chocolate chip cookie and artificial chocolate that taste like chocolate. Packages of three cookies, handy when you are on the road.

FAVORITE CENTRAL/ SOUTH AMERICAN FRUIT: Chirimoya or Cherimoya (aka. custard apple) - Native in Argentina, Peru and Bolivia highlands. The American author, Mark Twain described it as "the most delicious fruit known to man." With an avocado-like skin that is green when ripe which gives way to a soft, sweet, fleshy inside that taste lik a mix of pear, papaya, pineapple and strawberry. Hard to describe but uniquely delicious.


BEST CHEVICHE: Che Vicherio Stall, Mercado, Peru - Among the raw hanging chickens, slabs of beef, and piles of vegetables and fruits,  fresh fish mixed with lime, chili, and cilantro is served with a delicious fish broth soup with octopus chunks, a sweet purple-corn drink (Chicha Moran), pan fried corn kennels, sweet potatoes and their version of a seafood paella for $8.16. Need I say more?

BEST STEAK: La Cabrera Restaurante, Buenos Aires, Argentina - This restaurant could turn a vulnerable vegetarian into true carnivore. Steak cooked with love and care and accompanied by small dishes of sauces and vegetables. Nothing like the taste of a good cut of meat, perfectly grilled with meat juices flowing.  Voted as one of the top five steak houses in Buenos Aires and number 22 of the top 50 restaurants in South America. Come around 6:45 pm and eat between 7-8 pm for "happy hour" to get 40% off. The only two things any proud Brasillian will freely admit that Argentina does better is wine and steak. Admittedly, I averaged a steak a day while I stayed in Buenos Aires and with good reason. Tasty, inexpensive (compared to home) and well-loved by men, women, children and crying babies. They love steaks down here and usually they just salt it and cook it. I like mine with a little chimichurri (spicy sauce of garlic, parsley, chili and olive oil).

CHEAPEST LAUNDRY: Quetzaltenango (Xella), Guatemala ($2.06 per full load). Drop off, and wash and dry and wrapped in plastic bag like a birthday and Christmas present in 4 hours. Much happiness.

MOST EXPENSIVE LAUNDRY: Rio De Janeiro, Brasil ($13.62 per load).  

FAVORITE PLACES ON THIS TRIP: Quetzaltenango (Xella), Guatemala; Sucre, Bolivia; Ayacucho & Machu Picchu (when the sun came out), Peru - Often it is hard to differentiate a place from the people or a moment. These places were special to me, likely if you go to these countries, you will find your own places.

BEST CAVING EXPERIENCE: Actun Tunichil Mukinal (ATM) Cave, Belize (Near San Ignacio) - Part caving adventure and part archeological site. Where else can you walk among thousand-year old skulls and pottery in an ancient Mayan sacrificial chamber.

BEST WATERFALL: Foz Do Iguacu, Basil  - Walk along the paved path and admire this huge waterfall chain from the many view points and then walk on a catwalk right into Garganta do Diabo (Devil´s Throat). Exhilarating with the deafening roar as tons of water from the Rio Iguacu flows by.

BEST GLACIER: Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina - Larger than Buenos Aires (Population: 13 million), it is difficult to realize how immense this glacier is as it extends well beyond the horizon. The bright blue glacier is a beautiful sight and when a piece cracks, it sounds like a a gun shot. Wait, and you will see chunks of pieces fall in the water below.

BEST SALT FLATS: Saler De Uyuni, Bolivia. When the sun rises from the distant horizon and you stare out into this ocean of dry, harden salt. It is raw, harsh and beautiful. The lakes and changing landscape along the way were equally breathtaking.


BEST GEYSER FIELD: San Pedro De Atacama, Chile - Like a field of smoking chimneys. Well worth getting up in the morning to see the geyser field wake up with spouting steam and pools of bubbling water.

BEST MOUNTAIN: I can´t point to only one mountain as the whole Andean mountain range is absolutely beautiful. From the big monsters in Peru and Bolivia rising to 6000 meter plus of rocky, barren and icy terrain to the lush green wind-swept Patagonia in Chile and Argentina, full of bright blue glacier-fed lakes.

UNOFFICIAL NATIONAL SPORT IN THE AMERICAS: Making change from large bills. From the shop keeper to the hostel owner to the bus driver. Nobody seems to have change for the big bills that come out of the ATMs. When you give them a large bill, they either have a look of horror or a "pained" expression.

UNOFFICIAL SECOND NATIONAL SPORT IN THE AMERICAS: Avoiding stepping on doggy doo. There are many stray dogs down here and for the most part, they are very friendly and passive and are often well-fed by locals who give them food scrapes. However, they often leave "little presents" on the street. So if you walk down the sidewalk and suddenly start to slip, it isn´t snow.

NUMBER OF COUNTRIES TRAVELED ON THIS TRIP: 12

NUMBER OF DAYS AWAY: 211 days

COST OF TRIP: $20521.00

NUMBER OF COUNTRIES STILL TO TRAVEL:  ?