Back From The Mountains !

I returned from the nine-day HuayHuash Trek yesterday night and it felt real good to take a hot shower, wear clean clothes and sleep in a real bed again. The trek involved going up and down 10 mountian passes, over 160 km route. I particularly enjoyed walking through the long, green valleys where the jagged mountains and ridges cut the sky, where streams, rivers and high mountain waterfalls constantly flowed and in the high peaks, blue glaciers and the occasional avalanche could be seen and heard. There were times when it felt like we walking through a scene from the ¨Lord of the Ring.¨

The weather varied quite a bit, from rain, hail and snow on one day to sunny, blue skies the following day or even in a few hours. Given that this the transition period to the rainy season, this was typical weather and there were much fewer treks occuring, so almost all the camp sites were empty and we rarely met other people. There is a certain peace in this solitude and at night, with the bright stars above and the dark outlines of mountains, you realize how small you are.  
I can not stress how important it is to acclimatize when you trek in these regions. The young Dutch couple I went with are fit and active from rowing, swimming, running and biking, initially struggled hiking at this altitude. I am out of shape with no exercise and too much fried chicken and french fries but I have acclimatized to the 4000-5000 meter range for over a month. What a world of difference that makes. Drink lots of water, take the altitude pills and sleep as much as you can, taking naps whenever possible. You best acclimatize when you sleep as your body adjusts to lesser oxygen and can regulate its breathing. Getting headaches, breathing heavy and having a high heart rate is normal, and in a way gives you insight into what it must feel like to be much older as any physical activity takes a lot of effort.

Overshadowing the scenic views and vistas like a 6000 meter peak, was that I got a bout of persistent diarrhea starting from day three to day nine. I have managed to maintain my perfect record of getting diarrhea in all the South American countries I have visited and Peru was no exception. I left my antibotic medication behind. Bad mistake because getting diarrhea in the bush is not fun. Like a cranky, old, rusty ship engine, my stomach rumbled and I had to use the bathroom every hour or so as we hiked as my body tried to expunge whatever was in me. It could have been something we ate or drank. Maybe the water was not boiled long enough as the run-off from the fields to the rivers and streams are full of donkey, sheep and cow dung. As soon I got back to Huaraz, I took some Ciprofloxacin (antibotic) and the party in my belly ended.

I am going off now to take a night bus to Lima. Sleep well.