Peruvian Bound

After spending a night in Copacabana and a day of hiking on the mountain hillside and along the coastal villages of Isla De Sol (Island of the Sun), I left Bolivia and entered Peru by night bus into the southern and second most populated city (in Peru) of Arequipa. To my astonishment the bus heater worked and the roads were relatively smooth though the bus driver in Peru side drove like a maniac. If you don't have faith in God, you soon will if travel in South America.

Copacabana is a small town with an impressive Moorish-type church that looked similar to the Islamic art influenced Andalcian churches in Spain and plenty of trucha (lake trout) food stalls that hug the lake shore. True to its name, Isla de Sol was sunny with blue skies and due to the alititude, very little trees

which reminded me of the dry, shrubby landscape of the Greek Islands. I kept expecting to see wandering goats and herdsmen, and to have spanakopita, tzatziki or lamb souvlaki fpr dinner. The lake is immense and feels like a sea minus the salt air. There are even white sand beaches and aqua blue waters, and little towns of red brick housing, cattle and children flying kites. The mountianlike hillside affords views to the distant horizons and some Pre-Inca ruins and only when you start climbing, do you realize how high you are.  

So far in Peru, the internet is much better and Arequipa feels more wealthier. The streets are cleaner, there are more locals in bars, restaurants and stores and the food seems to be more refined and appreciated. I tried my first Cuy Chactado (roasted guinea pig) which reminded me of Chinese roasted pig but slightly leaner and of course smaller. When the waitress asked if I wanted the head on or off and how I would I like to eat it, I responded ¨I like it the way the locals do¨ with the head on and taking apart the fatty and crackling skinned guinea pig with your hands. There is also a sought-after piece of bone in the head that the Peruvians try to find which is supposed to be auspicious. The head is a bit tricky with the hairy ears, tiny teeth and thick skull that I could not get through so no bone for me. A little chilli and plum sauce would have done wonders with this dish but it is nevertheless tasty.

Another city, another market. I always find it comforting to walk throught the food markets in other countries and see the different fruits and vegetables and the day to day life of locals buying and selling, eating at stalls and haggling or gossiping.  Peru boasts an astonishing 4000 varieties of potatoes and often you will see rice, potoatoes and pasta served on the same dish. The chewing of Cocao leaves by locals is absent but cocolate is popular and you can take classes to make it.

There is also local city elections being held in Arequipa but nothing like the ¨cult of personality¨of seeing Bolivia´s incumbent president, Evo Morales´ picture, drawing or slogan plastered everywhere on walls, mountain sides and road side.

Off to get some breakfast and to arrange a Colca Canyon trek to see of one of the deepest canyons in the world.