Huayna Potosi And Last Look At La Paz

My attempt to climb Huayna Potosi at 6088 meters ended in 5250 meters at high camp. Both my physical condition and the high altitude affected my progress as I needed to stop every 20 steps  or so to catch my breathe and suck in some air. The first day was pleasant at the refuge which was surprisingly like a ski lodge. I met seven other travelers from France, Mexico, Germany and Australian who were also going up. The German even remarked it felt like being at home in a chalet in the Alps. I had fun practicing ice climbing on a small glacier and walking up and down with an ice axe. I found going down particularly hard using the crampons and axe and then walking straight down on the ice in a sitting position (as the guide said, like you are using the toilet). I have a new found respect for mountain climbers, especially hauling a full backpack as well.

The time I went up, the weather was not great with fog, lightning and thunder (not good when you are carrying metal objects like your axe and crampons and you are so much higher) and constant snowfall. On the second day, we made our way through the slippery, thick snow to the higher camp and I soon realized it was progressively getting harder going up and I had underestimated the difficulty of the climb. Only about 50% of the tourists who go up make it to the peak and I was not one of them. When we woke up at 2:00 am to ascend, I decided not to go up as I was paired (roped) with the Australian and the guide, and if I had to turn back, he would also have to as well. Unfortunately, the snow conditions and weather were bad and the three that attempted to reach the peak were just short of 100 meters from the top and had to turn back. I felt a little dejected when I returned back to La Paz but have come to realize that if not climbing a mountain is my biggest worry, then my life is pretty good.

La Paz is one of the highest capital cities in the world and unlike most cities where the more affluent neighborhoods tend to be higher for the views, the richer people live in the lower parts as there is more oxygen and a little warmer. You can take a cable car to one of these poorer neighborhoods in the Alto (the city is planning to build seven more cable cars) for the views of the city and mountains. On Sundays, it is particularly busy as the Alto market occurs and you can buy particularly anything including cars. More interesting for me, you can also see Mexican wrestling done Bolivian style with fan favorite "Churitas" (traditionally dressed women) fighting each other or against masked men. It is hilarious way to end the week with bodies flying in and out of the ring, over the top acting and chairs, water bottles and popcorn being thrown around. Great fun.

La Paz also had one of the oddest holidays last Sunday which was to encourage walking and exercise. From 9 am to 5 pm, no motorized vehicles (except police cars) were allowed to run in the whole city. It was really pleasant not hearing the honking cars or the smell of the exhaust fumes as the locals ran, biked, skateboarded, rollerbladed, walked and generally enjoyed themselves on the street and road ways. Food stalls formed and pick up soccer, volleyball and chess games played.

I am off to catch a bus this morning to Lake Titicaca to see the largest high altitude lake (8400 sq km at 3808 meters high) in the world before going into Peru. I have been told the sunsets and sunrises are particularly beautiful there.