Down In Bolivia

Before I left Asuncion, I explored the warrens of the local mercado, going in one alley entrance to the next and seeing my last chippa stand in search of the authentic Korean restaurant. I found it... The Gang Nam restaurant and admittedly the Gang Nam Style song ("Hey, sexy lady") was going through my head as I walked up to the door. But atlas, it was not to be as the restaurant was closed. My kimchi fix will have to wait.

I am thoroughly enjoying Bolivia so far and started exploring this country through the eastern city of Santa Cruz in the tropical and temperate region. Bolivia topography is impressively varied and there are also the western highlands, salt flats, Amazon basin and mountain regions which I plan to see later on. When you come into a new country, it always takes a few days to learn how things work here. I always say the first $50 is a write off as you are likely paying too much for food, taxis, etc. and your way around.

Like most countries in Central and South America, most shops close on Sundays, traffic quiets down and families spend time together. In Santa Cruz, families often go to the Sunday market in the nearby quaint town of Cotoca with lots of street food and artisan stalls surrounding the town square. The chica de mochinchi stands serving refreshingly cold and sweet peanut drinks and various plates or bowls of maize and chicken soup, majadito (skewered meat), spicy chicken or carne de saldo (pork) with rice. And yes, the garden gnomes are here too. The other place for a Sunday walk is the expansive botanical gardens which for $0.50  is good value.  Sloths, crocodiles, butterflies, ostriches, and mosquitoes, no extra charge. Bolivia is even cheaper than Paraguay and though a little rougher around the edges, the people are down to earth. Santa Cruz has a popular plaza to relax, eat ice cream and people watch the afternoon or evening away. With a pleasant, brick cathedral nearby and mostly one or two story buildings, central Santa Cruz feels more like a town than a city.

Not so pleasant was the bus ride from Asuncion  to Santa Cruz. What was supposed to be a 20-hour bus ride turned out to be 30-hour bumpy and dusty ride on uneven pavement, first through the arid and shrubby Chaco and much later into Bolivia. The bus that was advertised at the booking office was not the one we would ride in. Air conditioning meant opening or closing the windows and the washroom likely had not been cleaned since  the date of production. Typically, the bus rarely stopped, maybe four or five times for official checks and fuel as saran wrapped meals are provided. Bring food as breakfast was a juice box and four cookies. I also think this bus ride gave me constipation as I  refused to be jostled around in the filthy toilet and I kept telling myself that you didn't need to go.

While waiting for the bus at Gate 15, 16 & 17 (as we were told) and wondering why it was taking so long. Only to find out at the last moment the bus picked people up outside the bus terminal and we had to rush across the road to just catch the bus before it left. There were constant police checks along the way looking for drugs and a thorough baggage check in the Paraguaya with a sniffer dog. On the other hand, the Bolivian side was more laxed as they demanded to see our bags and the guards simply squeezed or slapped the baggage like a drum to past inspection.

It will be Bolivia's Independence Day tomorrow and likely there will be much celebration. It sunny and I am off to explore more of Santa Cruz.