Fun in Asuncion

Despite being apparently being the second poorest country in South America (that distinction belonging to Bolivia), Paraguay continues to feel very safe even while walking the capital city, Asunción late at night and definitely isn´t as sketchy as most of the capital cities in central america. Gone are the barb wire and electrical fences so pravalent in other countries, some stores simply have locked glass doors without any steel gating and the pólice do not carry machine guns. There are fewer guards here and most are just carrying a night stick. Many towns still have red dirt roads. The people are very friendly and when I asked about their mate tea, a vendor offered me his cup to try it. Sort of like green tea but more bitter, no caffine kick and comes in both  cold or hot. It´s somewhat refreshing. In fact, yesterday (July 30) was Paraguay´s official Day of Friendship where people (friends and family) gather with friends to bbq, eat and drink. About the most treachous thing I have done in Asunción is rent and ride a bike which is an infrequent sight on the road among the congested and fume spewing traffic. One way lanes suddenly turn into two lanes, buses and trucks edge you off the road and  and motor bikes zip by. Bike lanes, lights and racks (to lock up) are non-existent. The drivers are polite though and let you pass IF they see you and they do keep their honking to a minimum.

The city of Asunción is quite spread out and typical for Paraguay, the sidewalks do not feel crowded or noisy even though this is largest city in the country. People seem very relaxed and the various plazas are particularly pleasant with kids kicking futbol, people selling handicrafts at stalls, men shining shoes and locals relaxing in the sun or shade. There are a few sites to see like some national monuments and a river promenade. There was recently flooding in the city due to the heavy rains and some of the poorer people living in lower parts of the city had their homes submerged underwater. There are various sites of temporary wooden shacks for these displaced people and little communities formed with make-shift stores springing up, people washing clothes and barbequing, kids playing and day to day life continuing in these camps. The pólice are quite prevalent around these camps and generally in the city.

Riding the local buses is cheap and kind of reminds me of the  Guatemelan chicken buses though the pumping music and flashing lights are missing. As you leave the city or enter a town, there is a constant stream of vendos jumping on the bus to sell apples, tomatoes, toothpaste, medicine, cough drops, DVDs, drinks, cooking oil and books, soap and everything in between. I lost count at 30 on my last trip.  However, the local buses are VERY SLOW and a true test of patience and meditation. It took over 2 hours to get to a town only 57 km from Asunción as it stopped every 200 to 400 meters to pick up or drop off passengers. Just stand by the road and wave, and the bus will stop. There are a few towns near Asunción that make good day trips including ones close by lakes and one with the large Basilica De Caacupé and plaza but be prepared for a long day of bus riding unless you rent a car or go on a tour. I noticed the locals seem to be have an affection for
garden gnomes which were selling everywhere in these towns. Porky Pig, Angry Birds, Mickey Mouse, Spiderman, Mushrooms, Frogs, Hello Kitty... they were all there in ample supply.

I will be taking a 20-hour bus tomorrow to cross into Bolivia to the city of Santa Cruz. But before I leave, I plan to track down a Korean restaurant in Asunción´s maze-like mercado. I met a Korean traveller who came straight from Foz Do Iguaçu because he heard there were many Koreans here. He was in need of some Korean supplies and craving his home food. He found one hidden in the back alleys of the mercado and swore "it is the real thing." He also managed to stock up on his supply of Kimchi. It always brings me smile that the Koreans manage to travel with Kimchi in their backpacks ! He knowingly gave me a nod when I showed him my suppy of chilli "Sarachi" sauce.