To Eat or Not To Eat

I have been pleasantly surprised by how "foodie" this little country is. El Salvadorian towns seem to come alive on weekends as the food and market stalls are set up around the plazas from late morning to early evening. I particularly enjoyed the weekly food festival at the highland town of Juayua along the Ruta De Las Flores (flower route). I stayed an extra day just so I could partake in the food festival and eat at a local steak house.

The food festival is a series of grill and food stands. Simply walk by and small sample of delicious meat morsels will be offered to you. Be strong, and don't commit right away.  Waste not your stomach space. A plate of Argentinian beef, grilled frog or fish, or Bbq chicken on tortillas with rice, salad and maybe some shrimp will set you back $5. I settled on some delicious grilled rabbit, cheese tortillas, rice and salad and happily ate under a red yawning while the constant flow of street vendors offering nuts, toothpaste or cotton candy went by, the occasional dog scurried by for scraps and 2 musicians played on the marimba in the background (a traditional wooden music instrument made up of long panels that are struck and makes a particularly light and cheerful sound).

As for the steak house (R & R restaurant), if you fancy a good piece of meat with a local twist, I can say your search is over.  A subtle coffee or particularly rose flower sauce over a perfectly grilled steak. The almost caramelized crispy refried beans and rice was a nice touch. The chef is physically quite big and ogre-like and can hardly fit through the door but he takes his cooking very seriously and with care.

One charming practice here by Salvadorians is the afternoon coffee and cake/ pastry at the Panaderias. Whether you are a businessman taking his eldery mother out, a couple sharing a moment together or workers riding ontop  of a  dump truck and taking a break, a coffee and cake will be had.

I spent today in San Salvador, walking around the historical centre. The guerilla fighter organization turned to left wing political party, FMLN won another four year term and the party was having a celebration on the main square. Plenty of Che, assignated arch-bishop Romero, and FMLN shirts for sale, red flags flying and revolutionary songs sang. Normally, I would be hesistant to bring out a camera in the main square but with plenty of police, it was safe.

I make it a practice to listen to what locals say and mimic what they do. Say they tell you not to walk down that street, I probably recommend you don't do that. I check to see if the locals walk around with bags or use their cell phones on the street or if there are plenty of kids and families around, then it's likely safe. El Salvador, along with most Central American countries have issues with the Maras (gangs) or MS-13 / MS-18 or in this case the Salvatrucha (salva 'clever trout). There are apparently 100 000 members and originally were organized as a response to the Mexican gangs. The situation seems much worse in Honduras and I have yet to meet a traveller who has gone through the mainland, as they prefer to avoid it by going to the Bay Islands.

One place I would recommend visiting if you find yourself in San Salvador is the area called Santa Tecula, about 20 minutes from the city center by public bus and past multiple shopping malls and the exhust clogged traffic. There is a pleasant square and a street called Paseo El Carmen full of bars, eateries and bakeries, where San Salvadorans can drop their guard and leisurely walk down the street, families can share a meal together or sing a song that the mirabim group are playing. It's very relaxing and you get a glimpse of what this city could be without the crime and gangs. I have an early start tomorrow to Leon, Nicaragua so off to sleep.