Qat Crazy

By far the most common social activity for men in Yemen is chewing qat. Unmistakable with one cheek bulging out from the qat leaves and their hands carrying a plastic bag full of qat and a bottle of water. I can't speak much about the women fully covered behind the black abey as my contact with them is limited.

Life in Yemen seems to begin about 9:00 a.m. as the stores open and people start milling in the streets. The mid-day break happens as people take their lunch (the main meal) around noon as most of the stores close and the streets become quieter except for the bustling qat market. Sort of like a Middle East seista. People spill back on the streets around 4:00 p.m. and the businesses re-open and stay open until 10:00 p.m. or later.

In a shade behind a building, on top of hillside view point, inside some one's living room or in a qat den by the roadside, you will find men seated or semi-lying begin chewing qat at around 2:00 p.m. while chatting together, watching T.V., listening to music or occasionally smoking a hooka (water) pipe. The men usually chew qat daily for three or four hours, some up to ten hours a day! As one local put it, "Qat gives you power." Slightly bitter to the taste, chew enough of it and qat acts as a stimulant and suppresses hunger. People may spend as little as $2.50 US a day to chew poor quality qat or upwards to $40 US per day depending on the quality. When you consider the average wage in Yemen is $50 US a month (a high school teacher makes $75 US a month), it's a bit concerning.

Yemenis still admire Sudam Hussien and his face plastered on posters and stickers can be found on store fronts and car windshields. On the other hand, Yemenis are constantly complaining about their government stating they steal or you need to partner with them to do any business. The locals declare the only rich people are those in government. Despite the high unemployment, illiteracy, and poverty, I am continually impressed by how genuinely friendly, hospitable and generous the Yemenis are.

I'm about to leave Aden tonight for a twelve-hour bus ride to Al-Mukallah. Aden is much cleaner and newer than I had imagined and has a relaxed feel to it. The city has a few colonial buildings left over by the British and... the largest mall in the country, which means free air-conditioning to take a break from the hot, humid afternoon. There is a fort nearby offering a good view of the crater where the city lies and a series of impressive tanks, cisterns and channels built from the first century A.D. Plus, as the locals like to point out, you can buy whiskey in Aden while the rest of Yemen, alcohol is scarce to non-existent.