Yeah Man, I'm in Yemen

Without a doubt the capital city of Sana'a is one of the most beautiful cities I have seen for quite some time. The well-preserved old city contains about 14 000 stone and mud-brick "tower houses". You can walk a kilometer in any direction from the center and not see any new buildings. Sana'a is one of the oldest cities in Arabian Gulf (Biblical known as the city of Shem) and some of the buildings date back to 7th century A.D. In some ways you can have a glimpse into the past as you wander around these ancient skyscrapers that are as high as eight stories with beautiful carved windows and walls. There are also gardens dotted around the city that still grow crops to feed the people who live here. At night the stain glass windows of the "tower houses" are lit up and add colour to the cobbled-stone lanes. This is one great city to get lost. So full of atmosphere. Men wrapped in shawls pass by with cheeks bulging with qat leaves and jambiyas (curved daggers) snugged behind their decorated belts. Motorcycle taxis with goat or sheep skin-hide seat covers wait for passengers as veiled women catch up on neighbourhood gossip over wooden window sills. Children play on the streets as the souq hums with activity. Goods are bought, food is eaten and a train of donkeys is parked in a corner.

Definitely one of the best things about Yemen is the people. So welcoming, friendly and quick to return a smile, wave or greeting. Extremely hospitable, polite, and willing to help are some of their best qualities. Just this afternoon, some of the locals were demanding the micro-bus worker return money to me for overcharging my fare. I can't count the number of times I have been offered to chai (tea), chew qat or share a meal. Even the shop keepers are laid back and hassle-free, and the haggling friendly.

As an added bonus, Yemen is good value and the least expensive gulf country to travel in the Middle East. Accommodation, food and travel is cheap. I've got a room for $4 U.S. with satellite T.V. and 200 channels, and a shared bathroom that has dribbling hot water. Mind you, 95% of the channels are in Arabic. Food will run you under $5 U.S. a day with plenty of rice and fresh baked and Chapati bread, roast chicken, fish curry and fool (bean, tomato, onion and chilli paste) to go around.

Unfortunately, the roads to the north are closed due to fighting between Bedouin tribes and government forces. Lots of military planes and convoys are heading up north. One the few quibbles I have about Yemen is that you need a travel permit with your exact itinerary and dates from the tourist police when you go outside the capital city. Then you get about thirty or so copies of the permit and start handing them out at police checks.

I am off to Al-Hudayda tomorrow to see the Red Sea and eat some fresh seafood...