Meanwhile in Zanzibar

The Island of Zanzibar seems quite separate from the rest of Tanzania. Physically, it is separated from the mainland by the Indian Ocean and a three hour ferry ride (one and a half hour if you take the more expensive fast ferry). You even have to go through immigration with the semi-autonomous government again once you land. The island and especially the old or "stone" town, has a more Islamic and Arabic feel to it. Young girls and women walking in burkas and mosques and islamic schools are found throught the city. Stone town is a facinating mix of narrow, dark, winding lanes connecting homes, wood workshops and court yards together, where the tourists flock to provide income for this country. I think some Tanzanians have mix feelings for Zanzibar, as it is also associated with its' past, the African slave trade. The once capital city of the Arabic empire in East Africa (complete with Sultan, harem and hamam) prospered and grew due to this slave trade, and later spice and ivory. African slaves sold on the markets set off to sea from here, never to return.
As a tourist, the town envelopes with atmosphere and walking around you will likely get lost and eventually walk out into the sunlight and bright blue water front. The touts constantly hawk their wares or ask about joining a tour, and the locals occasionally greet you with a Swahili "Jumbo!".

Just before sunset, the Forodhani Gardens is busily transformed into a lively night market of food stands. Octopus, crab, prawns, baracuda, banana or sweet potatoes all wait to be ordered for grilling accompanied by chippati or a mound of fries. Or try the "Zanzibar Pizza," a crepe-like egg with meat and vegetables fried on an iron plate. It's cheap and fun but a word of warning, it's not for weak stomachs as sanitation is to be desired, the food is not always fresh (despite their claims), and all the cooks should take a "food safe" course. I went crazy eating there for two nights and paid for it with two nights of restless sleep, stomach problems and constant visits to the washroom.

I'm off to take the night ferry back to Dar and then northward by bus. Just came back from the beaches in northern Zanzibar Island. Long stretches of white sand, warm blue water and plam trees pretty much sums up a relaxing time. Places to stay and eat there was a bit more expensive.