Hello Kili !
Day One - Machame Camp (3000 Meters)
A wet slog through the rain forest up to 3000 meters with the rain clouds and thunder as our constant campanions. Despite the adamanant reassurances of the tour operator, the tent leaked, the ground sheet was too small and lovely puddles formed on the floor. Still the cool air and the occasional glimpse of the snowy peak of Mount Kilimanjaro is pleasant. I an going up with an English traveler and it's good to have someone to talk to and play cards with. There are quite a number of people, guides and porters going up today. About four other groups totaling 25 French, Russians and Americans tourists and 150 porters. We have one of cheapest with one guide and porter each ($850 US including the outrageous $633 US six-day park and camping fees) but the fancier treks come with tables, chairs, mess tents, vases with plastic flowers and even their very own portal johns and accompanying pup tents.
Day Two - Shira Hut (3850 Meters)
As promised we had egg, toast and one sausage (hot dog) for breakfast. The thunder and rain follows us as we leave behind the trees and are camping in shrub and barren rocks. Our clothes is damp as the sun only appears briefly in the morning to tease as with its' warmth and then the clouds and rain return. We camp at 3700 meters and eat our dinner inside our tent.
Day Three - Barranco Hut (3950 Meters)
It rained all night and there was no sausage for breakfast. We reached the snow level today and the path was slippery and we sink in the snow at times. To acclimatize we hike up to 4700 meters to the Lava Towers and hike down a steep gulley as the sound of avalanches is heard in the background. We return back down to the mud, wet ground, and some funny looking palm-like trees. I feel only a slight headache due to the altitude but my appetite remains good and I try to drink as much water as possible. I am looking forward to a hot shower and dry clothes in a few days.
Day Four - Barafu Camp (4700 Meters)
It didn't rain last night and the sausage made an appearance this morning! We went up and down three ridges as the rain clouds came back to drench us. We reached Karanga Camp at 3900 meters to each lunch standing in the pouring rain and then ascend 800 meters straight up to Barafu Camp. We return to the snow and barren rocks as we use the chicanes to guide us along the trail throught the mist. We walk on scree now and follow the muddy and snowy footprints of many who came before us. We camp in the snow and I continue my daily ritual of squeezing the water from my gloves and socks, and wear my wet clothes in a vain attempt to dry them with my body heat. I keep aside one spare sock to remind my feet what it feels like to be dry. I have a little shortness of breathe and light headedness going up but generally feel well. We eat a spegetti dinner and sleep early tonight. We climb the summit tomorrow!
Day Five - Uhuru Peak (5896 Meters) / Mweka Gate (1700 Meters)
We wake up at 1:00 a.m. and start the steep ascent up to summit at 1:45 a.m. after tea and biscuits. The going is a lot more difficult than I had anticipated and very icy on the snow as I constantly slip. My breathing is heavy due to the altitude and I have a headache and feel like vomiting. We attempt to keep our feet dry by wrapping plastic bags around our last pair of dry socks. Useless. Our soggy gloves, socks and boots freeze as we climb. Many "Our Fathers" and "Hail Marys" were said on the way up.
Luckily, the night is clear and the wind was minimal as the snow only came down later. At around 7:30 a.m., about a hour after sunrise and having gone up a cliff and around the crater's edge, we reach Uhuru Peak. We have touched the roof of Africa today!
We decide to decend to the bottom past Mandara Hut to Mweka Gate given the unpleasant prospect of spending another wet night camping in the mud. Just so we won't forget it rained again as we came down to the tropical rain forest, flowers and the sounds of monkeys. I can not truly express my appreciation of the simple pleasures of a hot shower, clean clothes and a warm, dry bed. I fall to sleep quickly that night.
December 31, 2006 - Moshi
I am off on a four-day Safari tomorrow to the Serengeti to see the wildlife and the wide grassy planes. The wildebeasts have already migrated down from Kenya and now roam the Serengeti. I wish you all a Happy New Year.
A wet slog through the rain forest up to 3000 meters with the rain clouds and thunder as our constant campanions. Despite the adamanant reassurances of the tour operator, the tent leaked, the ground sheet was too small and lovely puddles formed on the floor. Still the cool air and the occasional glimpse of the snowy peak of Mount Kilimanjaro is pleasant. I an going up with an English traveler and it's good to have someone to talk to and play cards with. There are quite a number of people, guides and porters going up today. About four other groups totaling 25 French, Russians and Americans tourists and 150 porters. We have one of cheapest with one guide and porter each ($850 US including the outrageous $633 US six-day park and camping fees) but the fancier treks come with tables, chairs, mess tents, vases with plastic flowers and even their very own portal johns and accompanying pup tents.
Day Two - Shira Hut (3850 Meters)
As promised we had egg, toast and one sausage (hot dog) for breakfast. The thunder and rain follows us as we leave behind the trees and are camping in shrub and barren rocks. Our clothes is damp as the sun only appears briefly in the morning to tease as with its' warmth and then the clouds and rain return. We camp at 3700 meters and eat our dinner inside our tent.
Day Three - Barranco Hut (3950 Meters)
It rained all night and there was no sausage for breakfast. We reached the snow level today and the path was slippery and we sink in the snow at times. To acclimatize we hike up to 4700 meters to the Lava Towers and hike down a steep gulley as the sound of avalanches is heard in the background. We return back down to the mud, wet ground, and some funny looking palm-like trees. I feel only a slight headache due to the altitude but my appetite remains good and I try to drink as much water as possible. I am looking forward to a hot shower and dry clothes in a few days.
Day Four - Barafu Camp (4700 Meters)
It didn't rain last night and the sausage made an appearance this morning! We went up and down three ridges as the rain clouds came back to drench us. We reached Karanga Camp at 3900 meters to each lunch standing in the pouring rain and then ascend 800 meters straight up to Barafu Camp. We return to the snow and barren rocks as we use the chicanes to guide us along the trail throught the mist. We walk on scree now and follow the muddy and snowy footprints of many who came before us. We camp in the snow and I continue my daily ritual of squeezing the water from my gloves and socks, and wear my wet clothes in a vain attempt to dry them with my body heat. I keep aside one spare sock to remind my feet what it feels like to be dry. I have a little shortness of breathe and light headedness going up but generally feel well. We eat a spegetti dinner and sleep early tonight. We climb the summit tomorrow!
Day Five - Uhuru Peak (5896 Meters) / Mweka Gate (1700 Meters)
We wake up at 1:00 a.m. and start the steep ascent up to summit at 1:45 a.m. after tea and biscuits. The going is a lot more difficult than I had anticipated and very icy on the snow as I constantly slip. My breathing is heavy due to the altitude and I have a headache and feel like vomiting. We attempt to keep our feet dry by wrapping plastic bags around our last pair of dry socks. Useless. Our soggy gloves, socks and boots freeze as we climb. Many "Our Fathers" and "Hail Marys" were said on the way up.
Luckily, the night is clear and the wind was minimal as the snow only came down later. At around 7:30 a.m., about a hour after sunrise and having gone up a cliff and around the crater's edge, we reach Uhuru Peak. We have touched the roof of Africa today!
We decide to decend to the bottom past Mandara Hut to Mweka Gate given the unpleasant prospect of spending another wet night camping in the mud. Just so we won't forget it rained again as we came down to the tropical rain forest, flowers and the sounds of monkeys. I can not truly express my appreciation of the simple pleasures of a hot shower, clean clothes and a warm, dry bed. I fall to sleep quickly that night.
December 31, 2006 - Moshi
I am off on a four-day Safari tomorrow to the Serengeti to see the wildlife and the wide grassy planes. The wildebeasts have already migrated down from Kenya and now roam the Serengeti. I wish you all a Happy New Year.
posted by Louis at 7:15 PM
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