The Slog Up North

After a hard eighteen hour mini-bus, chappa (essentially a mini-van crammed with nineteen people and one live chicken), a boat ride across the Zambezi River and a freezing truck ride on a flatbed, huddled with eleven locals to lessen the wind. I am in the small town of Quelimane in North Mazambique. It´s tougher to get around, the raods are worse and there´s lots of waiting around for the chappas to fill up before they leave. I´m taking a "luxury" "express" coach (mind you those terms are used very loosely in these parts) later en route to Ilha of Mocambique where relics of the Portuguese East Africa company remain.